Archive for the ‘Food And Beverage’ Category
Bloody Delicious
November 19th, 2009 | 
Author: 
Richard Ryan asked:
There’s not much in British cuisine that takes an adventurous eater to deal with. While the Vietnamese are partial to a slice of puppy and French favour the flavour of frog we’ve always been quite content with the quietly unassuming joys of fish and chips.
But there is one dish on our national menu that has the power to make even the strongest stomach face a moment of doubt: black pudding.
Made from the blood of animals such as pig, lamb, goose or even horses (among other assorted options) with mix of shredded suet, oatmeal, onions and a good selection of herbs, it’s one of the few dishes that divides the country. Many won’t even try it, but those who do swear by the taste.
Celebrity chef Brian Turner CBE is definitely on the pro side of the argument. “Black pudding always reminds me of my childhood growing up and learning to cook at my dad’s transport café,” says the Halifax born star of shows such as Ready Steady Cook. “I often watched the puddings being made at Ernie Ward’s, the butchers just across the road, and love to fry them with bacon and tomato. In a fried bread sandwich for breakfast black pudding was delicious!”
Today his culinary methods are a little more sophisticated, but the love of black pudding remains. “I’d still serve it simply, with bacon and eggs or with apple and pea puree. Rustic, good flavoured food is always making a comeback, especially today with the accent on British produce.”
It’s a resurgence that has caught the eye of many cutting-edge chefs, such as the owner of the award-winning Kwizeen? restaurant in Blackpool, Marco Calle-Calatayud. He admires the “strong meaty flavour” of black pudding and has found exciting new ways to incorporate it into dishes: “I like to gently boil the black pudding and then transfer to a sauté pan and finish it off with a little butter to accentuate its rich taste.”
“I tend to use it in dishes such as traditional Lancashire hotpot, but what I have found over the last two years is that people like to eat it as a starter too. It’s very popular.”
But while black pudding appears to be very much a dish of the moment, it is very much a favourite from the past too. One expert who really knows the ins and outs of its bloody history is Andy Holt, owner of The Real Lancashire Black Pudding Co Ltd.
“In Homer’s Odyssey (from around the 8th century BC) the Greek General Agamemnon is said to have fed his army on blood and onions to keep them strong,” Andy enthuses. “This makes sense because the blood contains iron and protein and the onions contain carbohydrates and sugars.
“The Romans, who were great sausage makers, took this recipe and put it into skins – thus introducing the black pudding. Each country developed its own particular type of blood sausage, ‘Boudin Noir’ in France, ‘Morcilla’ in Spain, ‘Biroldo’ in Italy, ‘Kashanka’ in Poland and ‘Bludwurst’ in Germany. English black pudding is not dissimilar to ‘Bludwurst’; the main difference is the herbs which alter the flavour and the fact that the oats and barley add quite a high cereal content.”
So, as a manufacturer, has Andy seen any benefit from the current black pudding boom? “People have definitely become more interested in what they eat. ‘Good, wholesome peasant food’ is how one writer described black pudding and it is and now it is an integral part of the finest menus. Our trade has grown at a steady 10% year on year because of people looking to source the best.
“Across the country we estimate that a staggering 300 tonnes a week is consumed in Britain, although obviously we only supply a tiny percent of that, which we believe is for the more discerning consumer.” It may not be a modest set of claims, but Andy’s self-belief is not misplaced – after all, this year his company (based in Haslingden) was officially named as the purveyors of England’s best black pudding.
“As sad as it may seem black puddings have been a part of my life for the past 15 years,” he continues. “Through them I have travelled all around Europe and made lots of friends in many places, I love the fact that we produce a local delicacy which is part of our food heritage. I feel proud to be keeping this great tradition alive.”
In fact, so keen was Andy to promote his products that in 2005 he even helped to create a black pudding flavoured ice cream. That might have been pushing the envelope just a smidge too far, but nobody can fault his enthusiasm. And with such a traditional British treat back in the public eye it’s important that make sure that we never let our desire for this exceptional treat melt away again.
There’s not much in British cuisine that takes an adventurous eater to deal with. While the Vietnamese are partial to a slice of puppy and French favour the flavour of frog we’ve always been quite content with the quietly unassuming joys of fish and chips.
But there is one dish on our national menu that has the power to make even the strongest stomach face a moment of doubt: black pudding.
Made from the blood of animals such as pig, lamb, goose or even horses (among other assorted options) with mix of shredded suet, oatmeal, onions and a good selection of herbs, it’s one of the few dishes that divides the country. Many won’t even try it, but those who do swear by the taste.
Celebrity chef Brian Turner CBE is definitely on the pro side of the argument. “Black pudding always reminds me of my childhood growing up and learning to cook at my dad’s transport café,” says the Halifax born star of shows such as Ready Steady Cook. “I often watched the puddings being made at Ernie Ward’s, the butchers just across the road, and love to fry them with bacon and tomato. In a fried bread sandwich for breakfast black pudding was delicious!”
Today his culinary methods are a little more sophisticated, but the love of black pudding remains. “I’d still serve it simply, with bacon and eggs or with apple and pea puree. Rustic, good flavoured food is always making a comeback, especially today with the accent on British produce.”
It’s a resurgence that has caught the eye of many cutting-edge chefs, such as the owner of the award-winning Kwizeen? restaurant in Blackpool, Marco Calle-Calatayud. He admires the “strong meaty flavour” of black pudding and has found exciting new ways to incorporate it into dishes: “I like to gently boil the black pudding and then transfer to a sauté pan and finish it off with a little butter to accentuate its rich taste.”
“I tend to use it in dishes such as traditional Lancashire hotpot, but what I have found over the last two years is that people like to eat it as a starter too. It’s very popular.”
But while black pudding appears to be very much a dish of the moment, it is very much a favourite from the past too. One expert who really knows the ins and outs of its bloody history is Andy Holt, owner of The Real Lancashire Black Pudding Co Ltd.
“In Homer’s Odyssey (from around the 8th century BC) the Greek General Agamemnon is said to have fed his army on blood and onions to keep them strong,” Andy enthuses. “This makes sense because the blood contains iron and protein and the onions contain carbohydrates and sugars.
“The Romans, who were great sausage makers, took this recipe and put it into skins – thus introducing the black pudding. Each country developed its own particular type of blood sausage, ‘Boudin Noir’ in France, ‘Morcilla’ in Spain, ‘Biroldo’ in Italy, ‘Kashanka’ in Poland and ‘Bludwurst’ in Germany. English black pudding is not dissimilar to ‘Bludwurst’; the main difference is the herbs which alter the flavour and the fact that the oats and barley add quite a high cereal content.”
So, as a manufacturer, has Andy seen any benefit from the current black pudding boom? “People have definitely become more interested in what they eat. ‘Good, wholesome peasant food’ is how one writer described black pudding and it is and now it is an integral part of the finest menus. Our trade has grown at a steady 10% year on year because of people looking to source the best.
“Across the country we estimate that a staggering 300 tonnes a week is consumed in Britain, although obviously we only supply a tiny percent of that, which we believe is for the more discerning consumer.” It may not be a modest set of claims, but Andy’s self-belief is not misplaced – after all, this year his company (based in Haslingden) was officially named as the purveyors of England’s best black pudding.
“As sad as it may seem black puddings have been a part of my life for the past 15 years,” he continues. “Through them I have travelled all around Europe and made lots of friends in many places, I love the fact that we produce a local delicacy which is part of our food heritage. I feel proud to be keeping this great tradition alive.”
In fact, so keen was Andy to promote his products that in 2005 he even helped to create a black pudding flavoured ice cream. That might have been pushing the envelope just a smidge too far, but nobody can fault his enthusiasm. And with such a traditional British treat back in the public eye it’s important that make sure that we never let our desire for this exceptional treat melt away again.
Posted in Food And Beverage | 
Tags: Flavour, Rich Taste, Traditional Lancashire Hotpot | 
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